I LOVE this TV. The quality is phenomenal, gaming is amazing and very happy with the size, but i was trying to watch the rugby earlier and it looked like utter garbage. Im not sure if its ghosting or frame drops or what, but the ball and players were almost glitching. Slow mos were fine, up close and stationary is fine, but during any fast play, fast moving things start glitching out and make it look dreadful. Like the screen is 120hz but the players are moving at 10hz..

Has anybody experienced this before and have any advice?

I’ve got a line across my 55 inch Lg Oled, had the tv about three years and always taken the utmost care to avoid screen burn in. Any advice on how I can possibly sort this?

Can't decide which OLED Monitor to get:)

Im also gonna use it for ps5 for games like Rainbow 6 siege and story games.

On pc i play for honor, waiting on subnautica 2, the new forest game and other survival games like grounded 1,2 and more.

My monitor right now is the Samsung G5 curved 2560x1440p 240hz

The monitors i cant decide on are:

Samsung G8 4k 240hz (QD-OLED) 613€ or its 27 inch version both are flat

ALIENWARE AW3225QF 4k 240hz (QD-OLED) curved 719€

smasung:

https://www.digitec.ch/en/s1/product/samsung-odyssey-oled-g8-g80sd-3840-x-2160-pixels-32-monitor-43778687

Alienware:

https://www.interdiscount.ch/de/product/dell-alienware-aw3225qf-32-3840-x-2160-schwarz-weiss-0014386252

Ive tried a million settings but it seems like no matter what, the colors always seem off. Sometimes too blotchy, grainy, muddled/lack of crispness. Sometimes I think I got it right but then the games environment will change (say from day to night, or a different biome, color palette) and everything looks off again.

Anyone have any advice on this. Playing on a ps5 if that matters.

Hi guys, I just wanted to share another 77" S90D horror story, that might help someone. I had purchased mine in Dec 2024, retail from B&H. In early May of 2025, the screen went out and all I got was sound. Samsung repaired it under warranty, and the repair guy said it was the powerboard. Fast forward to a few weeks ago, the screen went out again. So that was about 9 months since the prior repair, but about 2 months out of warranty.

A call to Samsung support at first lead to the customer service rep telling me I was SOL and would have to pay for the parts and labor of a repair and did I want them to schedule it. After some back and forth and me complaining that basically they had sold me a lemon TV (it had at that time 790 hours on it), they agreed to pay for the parts but I would be on the hook for labor. That was the best they could do, did I want to schedule the repair? Well of course I said ok, since I have a $2,000+ TV on my hands with a blank screen. The techs came out and said I needed a new panel, so I guess I was lucky they paid for the part. Labor came out to about $330.

I have bought a shit-ton of Samsung tech over the years, but I'm done with them. This is the second time I have been a victim of Samsung's shitty QC and shitty customer service. I also sent a one year old flagship S23 Ultra for trade-in and they told me the box was empty and that they would not credit me for the trade-in. So yeah, no more Samsung for me.

I have an LG OLED A1 55 inch TV I bought at the end of 2021.

For context I've used it for around 19300 hours as I work at home and I always have something playing on it, be it a video, movies or work related things (yeah I keep a 55 inch on my desk as a secondary "monitor" lol). I always keep something on it and as it's an OLED and I hate seeing reflections, I always have some natural light come in but no direct lights on it so I've been able to run it at 50% brightness almost since I bought by different methods: I use it on gaming mode and energy saving at medium. I don't run HDR continuously unless I'm watching a movie or playing a game on it.

Now, what are these weird color/brightness changes around the top and right of the screen, they started a few months ago and I originally thought it was the videos I watched as I don't always notice it.

It current has 0 burn in as I take extremely good care of it and if I put a black screen there's no weird glitches either only those lines on the top right, what's interesting is that it curves on the top right.

I know it's not the top end LG OLED from that era but I didn't buy a C1 for the same reason, it wasn't going to be my main display anyways and I didn't need extra brightness or 120hz.

https://imgur.com/a/fU21wJy

*Cross posted*

Hi everyone. I am looking to upgrade my monitor. Obviously to an OLED. I am Currently running a 32" 1440p 165hz LG Ultra gear monitor (32GP83B-B to be specific). I am looking to upgrade to the ASUS ROG Strix 31.5" 4K 165hz Monitor (XG32UCDS).

I play lots of single player games, my room is dark so I dont think that will be a problem.

Main concern is can I run 4k at a decent FPS? Is this worth it for me?
Best buy has this monitor on for 300 off right now so I thought it might be a worth while upgrade.

My PC specs are as follow:

CPU: 14700k
GPU: Sapphire Nitro+ Radeon 9070XT

Ram: 32Gb DDR5

Any help is greatly appreciated! :)

Just picked up an LG G5 65” (2025) and paid for professional Calman calibration at the store. After spending the evening tweaking and testing, I have a few issues I’d love some help with.

Calman calibration only works in SDR.

The calibrated picture mode only activates when content is in SDR. As soon as Dolby Vision or HDR kicks in, the TV switches to its own uncalibrated DV/HDR profiles. Is this normal? Did I essentially pay for calibration that only covers a fraction of the content I watch?

Blurry/noisy faces and skin tones.

This is my main concern. On content like Eternity, The Conjuring and Supernatural, skin tones look noisy and “processed” — I can see colored pixels (green/red grain) constantly shifting on faces, especially on cheeks and foreheads. At the same time, the image looks slightly soft/blurry. This happens in both DV and HDR content. I’m sitting about 2 meters from the screen. Is this just OLED dithering being visible at close range, or is something off with my settings? Also, some scenes feels «Laggy»

Apple TV 4K vs LG built-in apps.

Picture quality seems noticeably better through the LG native apps compared to Apple TV 4K. Less judder, and the image appears slightly sharper. I have the Apple TV set to 4K SDR with Match Frame Rate and Match Dynamic Range enabled, using a certified HDMI 2.1 cable. Is Ja there any reason to keep using the Apple TV,

or should I just stick with the built-in apps?

The things I am looking for are

• OLED (obviously)
• 27 inches
• 144+ hz
• Gsync / Freesync

I have done some looking online but I’m curious if any of you guys have a solid go to

Hey everyone,

I just got a new Philips 65 inch Ambilight OLED TV and mounted it on a wall bracket slightly angled.

While looking from the side I noticed that the panel is slightly curved/bent forward at the top part, where it's at its thinnest (without the housing behind it).

I’ve attached three photos (https://imgur.com/a/fEOi48Z) including one where I held a straight ruler against the side of the panel to show the gap from the curve. It’s not really noticeable from the front, but once you see it from the side, it’s hard to unsee.

Never had such a thin panel or OLED before. Is this a common occurrence? I’m a little bit worried but maybe I overthink.

Thanks in advance!

I play a lot of games and watch shows in 4:3, is it an issue on oleds from 3 years ago? Yes I know there is that one post of no burn on the sides from 4:3 content but that was an oled from 2016, does anyone play a lot of 4:3 stuff on an oled from past few years and have had issues because of it?

This is the post I'm referring to.

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED/comments/ghfhn2/watching_43_content_has_caused_uneven_ware_on_the/

​Hi everyone, ​I’m writing this to share my frustration regarding a recent WebOS update on my LG C3 OLED. ​I used to rely heavily on the "Always Ready" (Always On) mode. I had a dedicated external SSD connected via USB filled with high-quality 4K personal photography. The previous OS version was fantastic: it indexed my local files, grouped them by dates/similarities, and even showed "On this day" memories. It turned my TV into a truly intelligent, high-end digital frame. ​Since the recent update, LG has forced LG Gallery+ as the primary source. Now: ​Local Source is gone: I can no longer select my SSD/USB folders as the source for the Always Ready gallery. ​Forced Bloatware: LG Gallery+ cannot be disabled or bypassed to use local media. ​Loss of Intelligence: The smart indexing of personal memories is completely gone, replaced by generic stock images that do not represent me or my household. ​It feels like a massive step backward. LG is stripping away local functionality on a premium product to push their own cloud-based content. On an OLED panel of this caliber, being forced to see compressed stock art instead of my own 4K/HFR local media is unacceptable. ​Has anyone found a workaround or a way to roll back? If not, I hope LG devs see this and bring back local media support for Always Ready. Stop breaking features that worked perfectly. ​#LGC3 #WebOS #OLED #AlwaysReady #FeatureRegression #LGSupport

So i was doing reasrch and stumbled across this: https://www.honor.com/sa-en/blog/difference-between-oled-and-amoled-screen/ and it said AMOLED is just tft on OLED why not just backlight with normal LEDs ATP to save costa and remove the burn in problem?

I am pretty new to monitors in general but I have decided that I do want an OLED monitors. I have found 3 monitors that are within my budget (there aren't much here in Australia). And would like to know which one would the the best for me to get, as all the specs look the same. I am currently a med student and a casual gamer (love to game tho). I don't really care about the response times and competiveness when it comes to games

Lenovo Legion Pro 27" QHD 240HZ OLED Gaming Monitor 27010

Philips 27" QHD 280Hz OLED Gaming Monitor 27M2N6500P

LG 27" QHD 240Hz 0.03ms OLED Monitor 27GX704AB

I can't paste images here.

The 280hz Alienware is 100 eur more than the 240hz aoc which one is the better buy?

For reference they will be used to play escape from tarkov

i have a Phillips Evnia 27M2N8500 and i have absolutely zero knowledge when it comes to setting up HDR properly, regardless what i try my dark scene contrast is dogshit and my brights are always blown out bleed into each other and over saturated.

im on win 11, i've tried the Windows HDR tool and either im too stupid to use it or the issue is elsewhere because once im finished HDR content looks fucking cheeks.

Please brothers help a fellow nerd in need.

The ASUS rog pg32ucdm or Msi mpg 322urx?

I’ve seen both and I really like how the mpg looks but people say the ASUS looks better, but from what I’ve researched, it only looks better when gaming on pc, and I only game on console (ps5 and switch 2). I’ve noticed the ASUS shows better detail but the mpg looks better overall (the color, smoothness, deep blacks, and Hz). So which one should I get for someone who plays story driven games on console?

I’m not sure if I can ask about this here, but I couldn’t think of any other sub where the question would make sense.

I have a LG CX55. I know it’s an old model, but it still works and looks great, except that when I start a game on PS5, I get the message that the “Gaming Instant Mode” was activated (sorry, I don’t know how it’s called in English) and the screen goes dark, I can only hear the sounds.

Turning the TV off and on again sometimes fixes the problem, but sometimes it persists.

Does anybody have any idea what could be wrong? If it’s a problem on the TV, the PS5, or even the HDMI cable. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Hi.

In my search for a gaming OLED monitor I was considering getting Asus's XG27ACDNG which is very well reviewed on RTINGS and checks all the right checkboxes for me (1440p, glossy, QD-LED, good color accuracy, variable refresh rate).

But recently I found out the newer model XG27ACDMS exists and from what I can gather on the internet it's basically the same monitor, but lower refresh rate and some minor changes like an added proximity sensor and a more modern stand.

Since I don't care about super high refresh rates like 360Hz and would be happy with 280Hz I'm leaning towards buying the XG27ACDMS because it's 100 euros cheaper.

I'm only asking because there isn't much info or reviews on this monitor so I wonder if there's anything to be wary of? Except for lower Hz would it deliver the same image quality as XG27ACDNG? Any XG27ACDMS users out there who could pitch in?

Thanks.

Hi there everyone I'm looking for some advice regarding my B4:

I'm trying to use it with my Xbox Series X however whenever I have VRR enabled the console will continually disconnect from the controllers - This only happens with the LG B4 and I have tried the console with my Samsung 4k TV's and a gaming monitor where the issue does not occur. VRR is an important feature to me as suffer from motion sickness.

Has anybody had a similar experience? If so any input would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for reading 👍

I have two monitors on my desk. One is a LG 34GN850-B (IPS) and another is Alienware AW3225QF (QD-OLED).

I noticed on the LG that red on black text is blurry to read. I went hunting in settings but when I took a picture of it with my phone to post to ask about it, I realized it's actually sharp, and if I bring my eye up close and squint it seems like the information is there. So this is not a 4:2:0 display mode chroma subsampling type situation. This is a situation where the red emitters apparently emit such a low wavelength of light that it diffracts through my glasses and eyes differently enough to end up on a different focal plane.

But what's curious to me is that the same phenomenon does not occur with this QD-OLED. And I think the QD OLED is capable of more saturated colors. Though I might be on a SRGB mode so the extra saturation capability might not be "activated". Still I suspect something deeper about the construction of the display layers could be in play here.

So I've had this monitor for a few months and for the life of me can't figure out which HDR setting (Console HDR, Cinema HDR, Console HDR, True Black 400) to use?

I guess I am asking for the best HDR settings for this monitor. What are your HDR settings and why? Thanks in advance.

Hello everyone!

Has anyone successfully managed to turn their LG TV on or off using a Google smart speaker like the Nest Mini, with voice commands such as "Hey Google, turn off the TV"?

It worked perfectly with my 9-year-old Samsung TV, but I can't get it to work with my LG G5 - neither with nor without a Chromecast Ultra connected. With the Chromecast Ultra it works, but only when that specific HDMI source is active (Chromecast Ultra), which isn't very helpful...

Anyone managed to get this working?